Foodie
The Picky Eater: Pop! Restaurant
by The Picky Eater on Feb.23, 2010, under Foodie
Being a picky eater and all, I’m not often tantalized by the whole of any particular restaurant’s menu, but Pop! Restaurant in downtown St. Paul has pretty much won me over. This review, however, is going to be somewhat hard for me to write at the moment, as I’m currently hungry and there is nothing in my immediate vicinity that can do for me what Pop! can. And Pop! does it oh-so well.
A lunch date with a certain 651-based pal last week proved to be deliciously memorable. Despite the slushy road conditions, I braved the elements and made the cruise to Downtown Saint Paul with one goal in mind: To eat a pulled pork sandwich. Now, Pop!’s pulled pork sandwich is no ordinary pulled pork sandwich. It’s the BEST pulled pork sandwich in all the land, in my humble opinion. The “Asado” sandwich as it’s called, comes with a pile of thick, crispy seasoned fries and features a mound of succulent pulled pork liberally doused in a citrus barbecue sauce, then topped with a tangy pile of pickled onions. The pillow-soft bun that “holds” the meaty feast together may as well be decoration, considering this monstrous delight is far from being pick-up-able. I opted to eat mine with a fork and knife (like a lady) and got less than half-way through it before giving up on finishing it (and yes, of course I had it boxed up…and yes, I did eat the rest of it in the car).
My companion opted for a slightly healthier, but still to-die-for meal in the Grilled Steak Salad, a meat-heavy bowl filled with freshly grilled chimichurri-marinated steak, springy mixed greens, crumbling blue cheese, avocado, and a splash of Sherry vinaigrette. In other words, one hell of a salad. I was jealous, but I had my pulled pork, so there wasn’t really much time to dwell.
Pop! also boasts a festive and delectable selection of lunch items such as Ecuadorean Shrimp Ceviche with Cornuts, Chicken Posole Soup, Warm Beet Salad, a panko-breaded walleye sandwich, Swedish Meatballs, hearty burgers (both beef and Salmon), a plethora of pastas and much more. The dinner menu stays relatively the same with some additional entrees, starters and desserts. And true to its name, Pop! delivers a bubbly menu of fancy bevies such Stewart’s Key Lime Pie soda and some not-so-fancy, yet classic sips including Orange Crush. For the booze hounds among you, there’s also a full bar, so fear not!
As far as ambiance, the bright and airy space boasts a very retro-modern feel, with Warhol-inspired wall installations, modern table decor and settings, floor to ceiling windows and lots and lots of color. Pop! is somewhere you could take the kids (they even have a kid’s menu) but it’s got a just-upscale-enough vibe that could translate quite well into a cute date. Service is friendly and prompt and the prices won’t break the bank either. All in all, an unpretentious, happy joint that I’ll most definitely return to, time and time again…and yes, I’ll probably order the pulled pork sandwich every time.
Pop!, 6 West 6th Street, Downtown St. Paul, 651-228-1002
Mon-Thurs 11am-3:30pm & 5pm-9pm / Fri-Sat 11am-3:30pm & 5pm-10pm
Sweets in St. Paul: Cookies, chocolate and more
by Jahna Peloquin on Feb.11, 2010, under Foodie, Style & Nightlife
Tasty news on the Foodie front: Saint Paul Classic Cookie reopens this weekend, Rosedale’s Dinner and Dunk promotion kicks off, and other sweet treats just in time for Valentine’s Day.

Saint Paul Classic Cookie
Saint Paul Classic Cookie reopens
Saint Paulite baker Katie Novotny claims she learned her trade at the “Food Network college,” but a successful run with her own bakery for three years shows that’s nothing to scoff at. After closing her downtown shop in April of last year, the self-taught baker reopens her Saint Paul Classic Cookie shop at University and Raymond Avenues with a space that’s twice as big with ample parking. The bakery features cookies, muffins, cupcakes, cakes, brownies and bars, with scones, pies and rolls to be added in coming weeks. (2386 Territorial Rd., St. Paul. 651-646-0551.)

See's Candies
See’s Candies Opens in Rosedale
Just in time for Valentine’s Day, See’s Candies has opened a new location at Rosedale. The San Francisco-based company previously operated kiosks at various malls in the Twin Cities, but those were only open during the Thanksgiving and Christmas holiday season. Founded in 1921, See’s makes more than 100 varieties of candies, and is most famous for its signature Milk Chocolate Bordeaux. (Rosedale, 1595 Hwy. 36 W., St. Paul. 651-633-0373.)

Cake Eater Bakery
Cake Eater arrives in St. Paul
One of our favorite Minneapolis bakeries, Cake Eater Bakery, is now offering its goods the St. Paul Cheese Shop. The adorable, tasty cupcakes make regular appearances at many a hip happening in the Twin Cities - and disappear quickly. (St. Paul Cheese Shop, 1573 Grand Ave., St. Paul. 651-1698-3391.)

Amore Coffee
Amore Coffee to open second location
St. Paul’s Amore Coffee is known for its tasty coffee, pastries, and cookies, and cozy indie coffeeshop ambiance. They just announced that they will be opening a second location in West St. Paul in the next couple of months. Hopefully the new Smith Avenue digs will be as homey as the current location. (917 W. Grand Ave., St. Paul. 651-222-6770.)
More St. Paul sweets:

Chocolat Celeste
Twin Cities chocolate shop Chocolat Celeste is perhaps best known for combining its chocolate with bacon. Even if chocolate-covered bacon isn’t your thing, you’re sure to find something here to satisfy your sweet tooth. Chocolat Celeste has won awards for its beautifully-decorated chocolates and delectable truffles. If that’s not enough, Meryl Streep and Rachael Ray are fans, as is Al Franken, for whom the “Almond Al” is named. (2506 University Ave. W., St. Paul. 651-644-3823.)
Find all kinds of sweets besides chocolate at Regina’s Fine Candies. Homemade “carmellows” are Regina’s specialty - they come wrapped in yellow wax paper, like an old fashioned candy shop would. (2073 Saint Clair Ave., St. Paul. 651-698-8603.)
Just Truffles, of course, is known for their decadent truffles. Countless flavors include everything from Kahlua to peppermint, and they’re always adding new flavors and unique combinations. (1326 Grand Ave., St. Paul. 651-690-0075.)

Salty Tart
Golden Fig Fine Foods carries everything from the hugely popular baked goods by Salty Tart to chocolate and toffee. Unique sweets include chocolate covered Wheaties, mocha macademia chocolate bark, and Salty Tart’s take-and-bake brownies and fresh-fruit tarts. (790 Grand Ave., St. Paul, 651-602-0144.)
Cookie and gift shop Two Smart Cookies specializes in custom iced cutout cookies with home-baked flavor. The Minnesota State Fair award-winner bakers Melanie Danke and Patty Mathews also carry a small selection of gluten-free cookies. (181 Snelling Ave., St. Paul. 612-384-1069.)

Two Smart Cookies
For the past 25 years, Candyland has been an institution of the Twin Cities. The downtown St. Paul location is lined with old-fashioned glass case counters full of candy and chocolates, the store carries perennial favorites such as chocolate-covered potato chips, plus caramel corn, lollipops, licorice, fudge and jawbreakers. (435 Wabasha St. N., St. Paul. 651-292-1191.)
Special offer: February Dinner & Dunk Promotion at Rosedale Center
Through the month of February, if you spend $25 or more at one of Rosedale Center’s seven restaurants, you can receive two free tickets to the Minnesota Timberwolves game on Sunday, March 28. Simply bring your February food receipts from a Rosedale restaurant to Guest Services. Tickets are values at $35-50 each. (Feb. 1-28. While supplies last, one offer per person, alcohol not included.)
Food (Not) for Lovers
by The Picky Eater on Feb.03, 2010, under Foodie
Ah, Valentine’s Day. I like you when I have a boyfriend, but not so much when I don’t. This year I don’t. So in honor of that, I’m just going to rattle off a few under-the-radar joints where you won’t need reservations, but where you CAN indulge yourself with delicious food that you’ll probably regret later and also some cocktails (which, depending on your self control and behavior, you may or may not regret later).
Goby’s Grill & Pub
A relatively non-descript little pub nestled between the overly ’80s facade of Rita Ambourn Hair Salon and
Plum’s Bar, Goby’s is a little slice of blue collar heaven. Elements of the watering hole and restaurant seem to still have the glaze of the pre-smoking ban days, and the deep-fried smell of the joint is something you may need to shower off yourself (though, if you’re single, why bother). Still, Goby’s holds an air of working class charm that cannot be denied — and they’ve actually got a great menu of delightfully greasy bar fare that includes big, juicy burgers (that come fully loaded if you so choose) and perfectly golden, crisp onion rings and much more. The cozy dive pours some seriously stiff drinks as well, so your chances of successfully hitting on someone in a grubby sweatshirt are relatively high.
Goby’s, 472 S. Snelling Avenue, St. Paul, (651)690-5731
DeGidio’s Restaurant & Bar
While there may very well be some jerks trying to get romantic tonight at this West 7th
Italian joint, the bar will surely be all yours. Try to block out the “Lady and the Tramp” references that come to mind when you think of a lovey-dovey spaghetti dinner, and concentrate on what matters most: eating something bad for you and drinking the pain away. The menu here offers a variety of pastas, but the real deal is the Old Fashioned Hot Dago. A spicy, half-pound of Italian sausage is slathered with DeGidio’s homemade spaghetti sauce on Vienna bread, then baked with an unhealthy amount of mozzarella over it. Who can argue with that? Wash it down with a reasonably priced bottle of red and pretty soon you’ll start feeling better about your life.
DeGidio’s, 425 W. 7th Street, St. Paul, (651) 291-7105
Groveland Tap
This popular neighborhood haunt will probably be crowded on V-Day, but then again, it’s crowded every day
of the week. You’ll do well to belly up to the bar to grab a spot, or maybe head to the backroom/gameroom where seat-yourself hightop tables abound. In ye olde 2006, the Blue Plate Restaurant group (Highland Grill, Longfellow Grill, etc) took over what was then called B.B. Dixon’s. With some spiffy upgrades to the decor and menu, the Groveland Tap was born. Enjoy a brewski, some cheese curds and/or one of the best Jucy Lucy’s in St. Paul while you angrily throw darts at the imaginary faces of your ex-lovers.
Groveland Tap, 1834 St. Clair Ave, St. Paul, (651) 699-5058
Good morning, St. Paul!
by The Picky Eater on Jan.12, 2010, under Foodie
A breakfast out is such a simple pleasure. Certainly, you could fry up some pancakes in the comfort of your own home while wearing pajamas, but let’s be honest, it wouldn’t be the same. After all, breakfast is the most important meal of the day, they say, so why not let the pros handle it? In this week’s edition of The Picky Eater, we’ll run down some of the best and quirkiest breakfast spots in town.
MICKEY’S DINER
Well, this one’s a given. The famed 24/7 diner is a Saint Paul staple, and probably fits the “greasy spoon” bill better
than all the rest…because, well, the odds of actually getting a literal “greasy spoon” are somewhat high. However, pay no mind to minor details such as flies buzzing around the kitchen, cooks that look like they haven’t showered for a few days, or even the crazy homeless guy barking at you from the corner. You go to Mickey’s for that very reason — the ambiance — and of course, the oh-so classic food. At Mickey’s you can eat breakfast 24 hours a day. They fry their eggs in liberal amounts of real butter. They even hand shred their own hashbrowns. They consider a “1/4 pound burger” a breakfast meat. And their pancakes have been on national TV. To get to the point, they basically pull out all the stops to serve you some of the best cheap ‘n greasy eats in town.
Mickey’s Diner, 36 W. 7th Street, Downtown Saint Paul
also, 1950 W. 7th Street, Saint Paul
For more info visit www.mickeysdiningcar.com
GINGKO CAFE
While Gingko is more of a coffee house than a restaurant, the atmosphere here is definitely worth forgoing the
traditional eggs n’ bacon fare. This eccentric Snelling Avenue landmark attracts Hamline college students as well as an oddball mix of St. Paul artsy types, neighborhood characters, hippies, and musicians. While working on my laptop at Gingko one evening I messaged a friend: “I am facing a shelf containing an unopened box of ‘Tony the Tiger’ magnets, a mug that says ‘Daddy,’ and a basket full of window scrapers. There is also an Ole and Lena joke book and a couple of twirling batons” — if that tells you anything. Aside from the wonderful weirdness of it all, Gingko serves up Malted Belgian-style waffles any time of the day, as well as breakfast sandwiches and baked goods…and of course an extensive coffee and tea menu that puts cookie cutters like Starbucks and Caribou to shame. Worth a pop in any time of the day, really. Like I said to my friend that night, “if you’re going on a blind internet date with someone named ‘Bookworm99′ and you’re worried that you wont have enough to talk about unless there are an over abundance of young adult novels with religious undertones, or in case you feel safer with a pair of novelty lobster pincers on a stick nearby…Gingko!”
Gingko Cafe, 721 N. Snelling Avenue, Midway St. Paul
For more info visit www.ginkgocoffee.com
CECIL’S DELI
At one point in my life, I lived about 20 yards away from Cecil’s Deli. Now, whether this was a good thing or a bad thing, I’m not completely certain. All I know is that I ate more potato latkes in the year 2002 than I probably
should have. One of the “last true established delis in Minnesota,” this storefront delicatessen (founded in ye olde 1949) boasts a variety of traditional Jewish grocery items, plus fresh kosher meats, cheeses, and handmade baked goods. The back of the store segues into a small, no frills, sit-down restaurant where an extensive menu of soups, sandwiches, salads, and yes, breakfast items await. While all the traditional morning fare such as omlettes, french toast, pancakes and the like are available, Cecil’s also has such tasty treats as corned Beef hash, grilled pastrami, and even a Lox Plate for two that comes complete with Nova Scotia lox, two bagels, cream cheese, sliced tomato, onions, sweet pickles and lettuce. Before you leave, be sure to stock up on traditional pastries at the deli counter and perhaps a fresh loaf of Challah bread. Yum!
Cecil’s Deli, 651 S. Cleveland Avenue, Highland Park St. Paul
For more info visit www.cecilsdeli.com
Foodie: Salty Tart makes its St. Paul debut & Roseville Restaurant Week
by Jahna Peloquin on Jan.10, 2010, under Foodie, Style & Nightlife
Salty Tart heads to St. Paul
Fans of Midtown Global Market bakery Salty Tart can now grab some of the bakery’s goods across the river at Golden Fig Fine Foods. Salty Tart is helmed by five-star pastry chef Michelle Gayer, who also does pastries for La Belle Vie and Solera. Look for their fresh-fruit tarts, take-and-bake brownies, and fabulous focaccia bread. (790 Grand Ave., St. Paul, 651-602-0144.)
Restaurant Week in Roseville
This week, the St. Paul suburb of Roseville kicks off its Restaurant Week. Visit any participating Roseville restaurant and enjoy a three-course meal for just $25 (excluding beverages, tax and gratuity). Participating restaurants include Rosedale eateries Green Mill, Flame, Granite City and Big Bowl, as well as Roseville restaurants Axel’s Charhouse, Charley’s on Centre Pointe, Chianti Grill, Good Earth, Joe Senser’s Sports Theater, Old Chicago, and TGI Friday’s. In addition to this week’s dining deals, take $5 off a general admission ticket to the Roseville Winter Jazz Blast evening concert featuring JazzMN Big Band and guest vocalist Debbie Duncan on Saturday, January 16 at 7:30 p.m. at Maranatha Hall on the Northwestern College campus. Visit www.visitroseville.com for more info.
Kathie Jenkins of the St. Paul Pioneer Press listed her Top 10 dishes in the Twin Cities, and a few of St. Paul’s finest make the list:

Black Dog cuban
1. Cuban Sandwich
BLACK DOG COFFEE AND WINE BAR
Whenever I’m at Black Dog in St. Paul’s Lowertown, I check to see if the Cuban sandwich is on the specials menu. A twist on the traditional Cubano — forget the roast pork and Cuban bread — this sandwich is made with lots of lean pulled pork and served on ciabatta bread along with the usual ham, cheese, mustard and pickle. A 12-year-old neighborhood gem, Black Dog also serves a great cup of coffee and damn fine brownies. (308 E. Prince St., St. Paul; 651-228-9274; blackdogstpaul.com)
(Pioneer Press: Scott Takushi)

Shrimp Salad at Cheeky Monkey
4. Shrimp Salad
CHEEKY MONKEY DELI
Shrimp salad is pretty much a lazy person’s meal, an easy way of ordering without having to pay any attention to the menu. So, imagine my surprise after taking a bite of the shrimp salad at Cheeky Monkey Deli. Chef/owner Matt McArthur actually put some thought into the mix — chickpeas, cucumber, crisp greens and plenty of shrimp that still have a snap when you bite into them. I was tempted to also list the amazing coconut cream pie as a best dish of 2009. If you can score a slice, go for it. (525 Selby Ave., St. Paul; 651-224-6066; cheekymonkeydeli.com)
(Pioneer Press: Richard Marshall)

French fries at Cherokee Tavern
5. French Fries
CHEROKEE TAVERN
KFC has its 11 secret herbs and spices. At Cherokee Tavern, it’s all about Tony’s 5-Step Fries. Hot, crisp and greaseless, with plenty of salt, parmesan and potato flavor, these are seriously great fries. Cherokee also serves ugly but delicious hand-battered onion rings. Order both along with one of the Tavern’s juicy burgers — just don’t tell your doctor or your personal trainer. (886 S. Smith Ave., West St. Paul; 651-457-2729)
(Pioneer Press: Richard Marshall)

Brasa's collard greens
9. Collard Greens and Corn Bread
BRASA ROTISSERIE
This Grand Avenue outpost is just as crowded as the day it opened almost a year ago, and that’s because the food is so good. It’s almost all local and organic. I love the juicy pulled pork tossed with citrus, olive oil and garlic sauce; the cornmeal-dusted crunchy tilapia; the slow-cooked braised beef; and the lacquerlike rotisserie chicken. No matter what I get, my order always includes a side of collard greens. Cooked but not mushy and studded with tender smoked turkey, they’re the best greens I’ve ever had. The flavorful and not overly sweet corn bread is another must-have. (777 Grand Ave., St. Paul; 651-224-1302; brasa.us)
(Pioneer Press: Scott Takushi)

St. Paul Cheese Shop's fennel sandwich
10. Fennel Salami Sandwich
ST. PAUL CHEESE SHOP
The salami sandwich at the tiny St. Paul Cheese Shop looks fairly ordinary — until you take a bite. While not gargantuan, the handheld feast stacks up nicely with fennel-flavored Tuscan salami and cheddar on ciabatta bread slathered with sweet, creamy garlic confit. While you’re waiting for your sandwich to go, you’ll find it hard to resist the shop’s eye-popping array of cheese, olive oils, vinegars, handcrafted pastas, sea salts and chocolates. (1573 Grand Ave., St. Paul; 651-698-3391; stpaulcheeseshop.com)
(Pioneer Press: Ben Garvin)
Imbibe and be merry!
by The Picky Eater on Dec.22, 2009, under Foodie
I may be a “picky eater,” but one thing I’m not is a picky drinker. I’ll pretty much sample any alcoholic concoction placed before me, and the holiday season is a great time to merrily imbibe, sans guilt. Saint Paul is home to about a bazillion awesome bars and restaurants, ranging from seedy dives to classy-as-all-get-out establishments. In this week’s article, I’ll list off some of my favorite bars in the St. Peaz, complete with suggestions on the appropriate cocktail to order while patronizing them. Happy holidays!
The Turf Club
Saint Paul’s seminal rock club has definitely seen its fair share of raucous, booze-soaked shenanigans. The iconic venue
has been a local staple since the 1940s, when it was known as country two-steppin’ hot spot. Decades wore on and the bar adapted to the times, finally finding its niche in the local indie rock scene sometime in the late ’90s. Since then, the Turf has become Saint Paul’s answer to CBGB’s; a divey watering hole that slings a stiff drink and turns up the speakers way too loud when the Twin Cities’ hottest bands grace its stage. Lined with year-round Christmas lights and cracked vinyl bar stools, the Turf is regularly peppered with a broad spectrum of patrons that range from skinny-jeaned hipster kids to blue collar workers looking for a cold brewski. Bonus: The kitschy basement “Clown Lounge.”
Suggested drink: Rock out with a Whiskey Coke, and expect it to be mostly whiskey.
Turf Club, 1601 University Avenue, St. Paul
Camp Bar
A relatively new addition to the Saint Paul landscape, Camp Bar opened on Robert Street in Mid-2007. This stylish gay bar that has two big, well-stocked bars, a dance f
loor, a lounge area, and great entertainment just about every night ranging from DJs to cabaret. Camp is one of my favorite spots in town when I’m looking to drink a sassy cocktail with equally sassy friends. Separated into two spacious, connected rooms, you can choose to kick it old school on a stool in the casual yet contemporary front bar, or head to the back room for a more nightclub-esque feel, complete with mezzanine lounge, dance floor and flashing lights. The best thing about Camp is its inventive fleet of bartenders, who are happy to shake you up a unique specialty drink that will almost always knock your socks off.
Suggested drink: Bartenders’ choice, just ask for something “fancy” and watch the magic happen!
Camp Bar, 490 Robert Street N., St. Paul
The Dubliner Pub
This sparse, roadhouse-style bar is a mecca for stereotypical Irish rowdiness and foot-stompin’ live music. While
there’s not much that’s special in the pub’s design, it’s the patrons that make this spot a consistently rollicking good time. On any given night, a merry band of ruddy-cheeked drinkers can be found downing pints and exchanging lively tales. A steady stream of Irish musicians such as Tom Dahill, The Langers Ball, and The Wild Colonial Bhoys regularly get the joint jumpin’ with traditional tunes. The Dubliner is most definitely a major St. Patrick’s Day destination as well, with a tent erected in its parking lot and a huge, all-day lineup of musical acts especially for the occasion.
Suggested drinks: Keep it real with Guinness or Jameson if you know what’s good for ya.
Dubliner Pub, 2162 University Avenue, St. Paul
The Saint Paul Hotel
Forget the jeans and t-shirts, people. The Saint Paul Hotel bar is a reason to put on a slinky dress on a Tuesday (or any
given day). The hotel itself is one of the most beautiful architectural landmarks in the city and its decadent interior is equally as charming. Belly up to the swanky marble bar in the Saint Paul Grill — the hotel’s upscale in-house restaurant — and indulge in a myriad of perfectly mixed cocktails served by dashing, impeccably groomed bartenders. The ambiance screams (eloquently of course) of old money and relaxed luxury; one may imagine oneself in an sparkly beaded flapper gown, smoking a slim cigarette from a long gold stem whilst leisurely sipping a cocktail. The Saint Paul Hotel is the best upscale bar in the city, hands down.
Suggested drinks: Something classic; a Martini, a Manhattan, or if you’re feeling bubbly, a glass of champagne.
Saint Paul Hotel, 350 Market Street, Downtown St. Paul
“You just have to go! It’s crazy!”
by ccp on Dec.07, 2009, under Foodie
by Mecca Bos-Williams
Como Avenue’s International Marketplace may be the only place in the Twin Cities area that, had you been blindfolded and dropped into the middle of the massive, bustling space, you would almost certainly believe you had been shuttled to another place in the world.
Perhaps the most transporting place in town, International Marketplace has to be seen to be believed. Amongst foodie friends, the conversation usually goes a little bit like this:
“You haven’t been to that crazy place on Como?!”
“No.”
“It’s crazy! You have to go.”
“Why, what’s it like?”
“You just have to go! It’s crazy!”
And so forth. So, it’s a bit difficult to describe this marketplace. Put simply, it’s similar to the open air markets and bazaars found throughout the world, but never around these parts, and it’s not open air. Built by and for the 90,000 or so Hmong who now call the Twin Cities home, the parking lot holds perhaps hundreds of cars, and inside, you’ll find zillions of shoppers, hell, zillions of vendors even, and the decibel level goes into difficult-to-believe levels. The number of sights? You have to go! It’s crazy! It’s the pure definition of sensory overload.

Amongst those sights you’ll find hoochie dresses, Hmong music videos, lots and lots and lots of medicinal herbs, silver shoes, toy machine guns, fresh mint, diapers, salad tongs. . . You get the idea. If one were so inclined, I think it would be possible to buy nearly anything here that you might find at your local Walmart, and far more interesting at that.
But what I’m interested in is the food. Head to the back wall of building A (there are two buildings, sort of separated by an open Farmer’s Market area in cooperative weather) and you’ll find a row of food vendors, much like a food court. A strategy when ordering and eating foods unusual to you: get into the longest line and point at whatever the guy before you ordered. Really. This works for me, it works like a charm, and it was exactly what I did on my first visit to International Marketplace.
In my opinion, the star of the show here is the green papaya salad—a very traditional dish commonly found on Hmong dinner tables. You’ll know the booth by the giant mortar and pestle being worked by a tiny woman with the expertise of a polo player driving a team of wild horses. When it’s your turn to order, she’ll ask you how spicy: you’ll have to soldier through warnings and cockeyed looks of you want it spicy as hell (aka the way the guy in front of you ordered it). This salad is equal parts refreshing and lip-numbing, with shredded green papaya, tomato, lime, garlic, chile, Thai eggplant and enough herbs, spice and mysterious elixirs to season a spice market. Be sure and buy a serving of purple sticky rice as accompaniment, the two go together like ketchup and fries—the rice adding a much-needed neutrality to the formidable spice of the salad.

Also: tiny roasted quail served up in an unfortunate, obscene pose, accompanied by a spicy, sweet dipping sauce; sticky rice balls, chicken wings stuffed with rice noodles, and a kind of deep fried banana that makes a lovely finish to an adventurous meal. But, don’t limit yourself to these. Pick a line, wait as patiently as you can, and start pointing. Carry your score over to the communal dining tables, and dig in. Whatever it is you’ve got, it will have cost you about $500 less than a plane ticket, and your Camry is parked just outside in the snow—you’ll have been glad you insisted on that extra spice.
International Marketplace, 217 Como Avenue, St. Paul
The Picky Eater: Taste of Thailand on Selby
by The Picky Eater on Dec.05, 2009, under Foodie
I still remember the first time I ate Taste of Thailand. It was 1994, or thereabouts. My younger sister, a candy raver at the time, brought home a carton of the restaurant’s Pad Thai with fried tofu, claiming it was her new favorite and
insisting I try it. Me being the “picky eater” that I am, was skeptical at first. After all, it was tofu, and bean sprouts had always irked me on some level. I threw caution to the wind, however, and on a blustery winter night in the mid-nineties, a new obsession was born.
As the years past, my geographic location in the Twin Cities changed a number of times; from Highland Park to Midway to a short stint in Roseville to Northeast Minneapolis to Highland Park again and then back to Northeast Minneapolis. No matter where I went, I always held dear the little hole-in-the-wall Thai joint that forced me out of my bean sprout-hating shell. Return visits, whether they be for take-out or dine-in have never disappointed. And to this day, I almost always order the Pad Thai with Tofu.
Not to say I haven’t tried other delights on Taste of Thailand’s menu, because I most certainly have. We’ll start with the basics: Appetizers. I’ve always been a fan of finger food, small plates, hors d’ouevres, and so on. I have a hard time making decisions when faced with too many delicious options, so when dining out I often opt for a couple of appetizers rather than an entree. I can get down with a Pupu Platter with the best of ‘em. TOT’s app menu is pretty standard for an American Thai restaurant, but they do offer a few weird things that I, picky as I am, won’t touch with a ten-foot pole such as Squid-stuffed Chicken Wings and Bamboo Shoots. I am, however, completely enamored with their cream cheese wontons. Super-thin, delicate wonton skins encase the perfect amount of sweet cream cheese and come with a side of sauce that I imagine has a honey base. Also of note, their fresh Spring Rolls are fat tubular treats jammed with crunchy sprouts, cellophane noodles, lettuce, cilantro, shrimp and pork (veggie option available) and come with a perfect peanut sauce.
Of course I’ve already mentioned the Pad Thai, but I’ll rave about it a bit here too. I can often make three meals out of
an order of Taste of Thailand’s Pad Thai, and that’s no lie. The massive portion of flavorful, fried noodles is tossed with crisp bean sprouts, green onion, crushed pepper (1-5 spicy), and whatever meat option you’re into — or the aforementioned fried tofu or mock dock. A mound of crushed peanuts and a lemon wedge accompany, of course. Also a favorite is the Masaman Curry, a saucy concoction of slim cuts of beef, tender potatoes and a fiery yet sweet curry served with a side of white rice — personally, I’d be perfectly delighted to eat the rice and curry sauce on their own. The sweet n’ spicy Papaya Salad is also worth trying, with shredded green papaya, green beans and the perfect balance of heat. Of course, no trip to Taste of Thailand is complete without sharing a dainty dish of their Sweet Sticky Rice with Mango, a cool, delectable finish to your spicy meal.
Ambiance-wise Taste of Thailand is a bit questionable, with a generic-looking storefront, typically slow service and inconsistent decor featuring some modern elements, some traditional, and some aspects that are just plain crappy and old. But what TOT lacks in looks, it makes up for in spirit (and of course, food). The big dining room is quite jovial on the weekends, and chill enough on the weekdays for a cute, unpretentious dinner date. After all, it’s what’s inside the kitchen that counts.
Like many good little Asian restaurants, Taste of Thailand doesn’t have an official website, but you can check out their menu via menuism.com HERE and also read other diner’s reviews via Yelp HERE.
Taste of Thailand, 1669 Selby Avenue, Saint Paul, (651-644-3997)
Other locations include 1753 Old Hudson Rd. in St. Paul, as well as a couple Minneapolis locations.
The Picky Eater: Grampa Tony’s
by The Picky Eater on Nov.21, 2009, under Foodie
I’ll be honest, I’ve never been a particularly adventurous eater. Don’t get me wrong, I love food, but many textures and fl
avors just rub my picky palate the wrong way. I consider myself the food writer of the regular Joe; your unpretentious captain of culinary delights that don’t involve squid ink or foie gras. I won’t quote the French and I won’t educate you on proper oyster-eating etiquette, this I promise. I will, from time to time however, wax poetic about cheese.
Saint Paul is widely known as foodie’s paradise, home to some of the most buzzed-about gourmet restaurants in the state. And while I’ll certainly delve into those kinds of places now and then (complete with tips on how to avoid eating curried goat bladder without being labeled a wuss), my main focus will be filling you in on tasty tidbits that everyone can relate to. My first post, in fact, will deal with a staple, signature favorite: Pizza.
For the first 16 or so years of my life, I’d only eat cheese pizza. I eventually branched out to pepperoni, then olives, then sausage, and at some point I even graduated to the occasional jalapeno or Hawaiian pizza. Risky, eh? Despite my particulars on the eclecticism of pizza toppings, I think one thing can be agreed: No matter what’s on it, a
good pizza is a good pizza. The crust, the sauce, the cheese…any of these things can easily win or fail. In my inaugural post, I’ll detail one of my favorite Saint Paul pizza/Italian joints, Grampa Tony’s in Highland Park. Feel free to chime in on the comments section with your own personal faves. After all, the world can always use another good pizzeria recommendation, if you ask me.
I actually consider myself an expert on this joint, because back in the late nineties I waited tables there. But make no mistake, I’m unfortunately not receiving any delicious kick backs — I was a terrible waitress and I’m pretty sure they all high-fived each other when I left. Despite the constant running, bending, lifting and such that I was subjected to at that job, I didn’t lose a pound — most likely due to the fact that I always left with something that had at least a pound of cheese on it. Damn you, employee discount. At any rate, pretty much everything on the menu at this cozy nook is worth a chomp. From sandwiches to pastas to pizzas, Grampa Tony’s is a Saint Paul classic.
GT’s keeps it real with fresh, non-blended mozzarella cheese — and they most certainly don’t skimp on it. To me, cheese is key. A pizza with a chintzy application of cheese that does not hint at early heart-failure isn’t a good pizza in
my book. A decent piece of ‘za ought to “spread,” which means the cheese is so abundant that is slides greasily off the edges of the crust once it’s cut. Delightful, right? Grampa Tony’s pizzas definitely achieve this. Each style of crust here is a first place winner in its own right as well. From the crisp, delicate thin crust to the perfectly chewy traditional crust, to the outrageous “Stuffed pizza” (we’ll get that later), each crust allows its toppings to take center stage while still providing a notable foundation. I went on a slight cheese tangent above, but trust me, Grampa T’s doesn’t go light on their other toppings either. For instance, a pepperoni pizza is a multi-layered endeavor stacked with more super-thin circular meat-discs than you can (almost) handle. And the spicy sausage is the cook’s own special blend of fresh, herbed meat that’s torn off in raw tufts and sent into the oven atop a signature mound of mozz.
The Stuffed Pizza is another matter entirely, and in fact, ought to come with some sort of disclaimer relating to possible “death by cheese.” Basically a pizza version of lasagna, this ridiculous Chicago-style deep dish pizza requires 45 minutes to bake and consists of layer upon layer of cheese, your choice of “toppings,” and sauce — with an additional crust layer to keep everything in check. Definitely not for the faint of heart — fork, knife and bib required.
Grampa Tony’s is not just about the pizza, however. They’ve also got a pretty solid pasta and sandwich menu. One of my ultimate favorites is the Italian Roast Beef Sandwich, which comes on a toasted hoagie bun sopped in garlic butter and mounded with savory, paper-thin slices of roast beef. The option to include an
ungodly amount of mozzarella cheese is less an option and more of a requirement in my book. Served with a side of salty au jus sauce, this monster pretty much demands to be eaten with a fork and knife, unless, of course, you can unhinge your jaw.
Pasta dishes here are also nothing to scoff at. Heaping helpings of carb-fueled favorites come paired with buttery garlic bread and a side salad, and are almost always under $10. Stand outs include old-school Spaghetti with dense, spicy meatballs, liberally doused in a tangy red sauce; lasagna packed tight with flavorful meats and more mozzarella and ricotta than any human should consume in one sitting; and simple but hearty mostoccoli baked under a crusty layer of stringy cheese. Of course, for the heart-healthy wimp there are plenty of non-threatening, yet still tasty selections such as signature salads, veggie sandwiches and non-cheese-laden pasta dishes.
In regards to ambiance, Grampa Tony’s is a conversation piece in itself. The owners, longtime pop culture aficionados, have literally covered the walls of the restaurant from floor to ceiling with autographed photos of legendary celebrities, sports figures and rock icons, as well as playbills, ticket stubs and other such fascinating tidbits of Americana. The intimate dining room is one part neighborhood pizzeria and one part cute date spot. Dinnertime on the weekends is usually a loud, boisterous affair, complete with screaming children, but if you’re looking for a more chilled out dining experience with a glass of vino, I’d recommend hitting them up after 9pm on the weekends or after 8pm on any given weeknight.
For more info visit www.grampatonyspizza.com
Grampa Tony’s, 631 Snelling Avenue S., St. Paul 55116
Fresh, New, Exciting St. Paul Dining Options
by Mecca Bos-Williams on Oct.28, 2009, under Foodie
Like it or not, St. Paul does its fair share of playing second fiddle to Minneapolis’ dining scene. Sure, St. Paul has its gems, ones you’d never see on the other side of the river—W.A. Frost, Cosetta’s, and even Mancini’s come to mind. But when it comes to the fresh, new and exciting, St. Paul was due. Thanks to three new eateries (yes, all of which can also be found in Minneapolis) St. Paul has just received a much-needed breath of energy.
Brasa, Premium Rotisserie
When Brasa first opened in Northeast Minneapolis, they were nearly eaten out of product on opening day. Chef/ Owner Alex Roberts (also of the more haute Alma) could be seen hanging out in jeans, hunting for to-go boxes and overseeing beans and rice coming out the open kitchen. It seems the idea of fast, fresh, good food family style struck a nerve with the dining public, and that niche certainly isn’t relegated to one town or another. Grand Avenue got it’s own Brasa this summer, and with its menu of a Southern/ Caribbean style blend of roasted meats paired with sides of rice, beans, and wholesome veggies, there’s hardly anyone who could say no to dinner here.
All proteins are scrupulously sourced from local farms, like fall-off-the bone 12-hour slow roasted pork from Heritage Berkshiere, MN. It should go without saying that all of the meats are available as sandwiches too, like a smoked braised beef with pickled cucumber and jalapeno. Vegetarians can be happy here as well, with a meal of rich, country style cheese grits, creamed jalapeno spinach, and red or black beans seasoned to precision.
Roberts opened this restaurant with a mind towards what he feeds his own family at home, noting that people sometimes mistake restaurant and bar food for real food. “If you ate that way every day, you would probably get sick,” he reminds diners. As such, the food at Brasa contains no MSG, high fructose corn syrup, or processed ingredients. Meat and dairy comes from free roam, pasture-based local farms, and many other ingredients are organic and sustainably raised.
“The menu at Brasa is the kind of food I want to feed to a pregnant woman, a hard working guy, a growing kid,” Roberts adds. Duly noted, and delicious.
Brasa, 777 Grand Ave., 651-224-1628
Barrio & The Bulldog
Goodbye, old jokes about Lowertown rolling up the streets come sundown. My last several visits to the surrounds of Mears Park featured plenty of Pretty Young Things teetering around in stilettos, walking designer dogs and sipping craft beers on sidewalks. The ingenious side-by-side addition of these two hipster watering holes has all but transformed dusty old downtown into a bustling hotspot.
Barrio Tequila Bar by Minnesota’s most famous chef, Tim McKee, picks up where taco joints leave off by elevating sopes and carnitas to haute cuisine. Prices can get a little steep ($4 for a single taco and well into the $10 range for shots of top shelf tequilas) but what you’ll get is an evening worthy of your hottest party dress. Check out happy hour specials twice daily, plus weekend DJ’s.
If you’re after something slightly more casual, just slide on over to the Bulldog, where burgers and hotdogs are just what your belly ordered for soaking up suds, along with a sports/ game vibe proper for jeans and Uggs.
With over 100 beers on the list, bring along your biggest snobs– they’re sure to find something. (If not, hey, you can always bounce over to Barrio and get them tequila happy.)
Bar food favorites are a cut above dive bar standards, such as the B.E.L.T. (bacon, egg, lettuce and tomato). With it’s medium cooked egg, I want this thing for breakfast. Burger fans will love the Humpty Dumpty, with cheese and a fried egg, and, of course you can’t go wrong with a classic Chicago dog (tomato, pickle, onion, relish, yellow peppers and mustard).
Everything is priced under $10, happy hours are twice daily except on weekends, and if you’re in the mood to play, don’t miss the newish 22-foot shuffleboard.
Barrio, 235 E. Sixth Street, 651-222-3250; barriotequila.com
Bulldog, 237 E. Sixth Street, 651-221-0750; thebulldoglowertown.com


