The651.com

It wasn’t just an intense craving for Chinese cuisine that drew me to St. Paul’s Little Szechuan this dreary, misty Sunday afternoon, after all, it’s not like there are a lack of Asian restaurants in the city. Today was different though. I craved spice, and not just any Asian dish doctored up with some chili paste and Sriracha sauce would do. Thankfully, I remembered the Twin Cities’ authentic Asian food guru, Little Szechuan. Specializing in what their website calls “the most popular of the eight Chinese culinary traditions,” Little Szechuan’s menu boasts 100+ dishes ranging from the familiar – Kung Pao Chicken – to descriptions on the more adventurous – Szechuan Cold Bean Jelly, anyone? – and mysterious – Dan Dan Noodle (?) – side uniquely designed by Chinese chefs hailing from the Sichuan Province. What results from a restaurant who is not afraid to incorporate truly traditional flavors and refuses to “Americanize” their dishes, is a refreshing variety of exciting tastes – spicy, savory, piquant, salty, and everything in between. In fact, rumor has it that after trying a dish blanketed in Little Szechuan’s spicy chili peppers, your tongue goes numb, your palate reopens and you start to taste flavors completely differently from then on.

Forgive Little Szechuan’s humble cafeteria-style décor. What the restaurant lacks in atmosphere, they make up in sheerly divine dishes. On our visit to Little Szechuan –

Tick Tock Tea Pot

after sipping down a warming cup of hot green tea concealed in a metal tea pot resembling Tick Tock from Disney’s Return to Oz – my food companion and I let our gluttonous side do the talking and ordered three dinner entrees to share: Fish Fillet in Spicy Tofu Broth ($13.95), Ma Po Tofu ($10.95) and Tea Tree Mushrooms in Dry Pot ($12.95). Don’t let the classic Asian dishes like Sweet & Sour and Cream Cheese Wontons lure you in. What sets Little Szechuan apart from other Asian restaurants is their strength to make you fall head over heels for a “weird” dish. Order something that raises an eyebrow, and you won’t be disappointed.

Our entrees arrived in record time looking vibrantly beautiful.

Fish Fillet in Spicy Tofu Broth

The Fish Fillet in Spicy Tofu Broth was served much like a soup with almost a gelatinous texture. The breaded fish was delicately cooked to perfection, melting with each bite – making it a slight challenge to eat with chopsticks. The dish was also covered with a shower of red Szechuan pepper, bits of tofu and a deft hand of Asian vegetables – Chinese cabbage, sprouts and onions. An utter delight!

Tea Tree Mushrooms in Dry Pot

I was instantly happy that we ordered the Tea Tree Mushrooms in Dry Pot as it was a clean-tasting dish of scallions, cilantro, onions and crisp tea tree mushrooms that cleansed the palate of spice and allowed the taste buds to prepare for the next dish. The Ma Po Tofu was another savory delight, bright red in color, fragrant and fresh with Szechuan peppercorns that did indeed numb the mouth. This particular dish is often described using seven specific Chinese adjectives: numbing, spicy hot, hot temperature, fresh, tender and soft, aromatic, and flaky – and luckily this authentic entree hasn’t been “toned down” for those not familiar with Szechuan spices, making it an amazing and fiery dish.

Ma Po Tofu

Little Szechuan is truly a St. Paul gem. Pay them a visit and your taste buds will thank you for nurturing your adventurous side.

Little Szechuan, 422 University Ave. W., St. Paul, 651.222.1333