The651.com

Vietnamese Pho

As a foodie, I’m always refreshed to see a menu that highlights local producers; it’s a cue that not only is the chef committed to high-quality ingredients, but that they are helping to build the network of support systems that continue to evolve and improve our regional cuisine. While St. Paul is studded with remarkable restaurants mining the culinary traditions of Asia, it’s unusual to see those restaurants making a serious effort to incorporate local ‘flora’ and ‘fauna’ into their menus. With that in mind and intrigued by their catchy tagline, “break the chain – eat, drink, & buy locally,” I was excited by a recent invitation to dine at Ngon Bistro on University Ave. It’s a great little gem that’s been around since 2008 and continues to provide an excellent dining experience. It’s well worth checking out for a casual weekday evening nosh or to make a typical weekend dinner extra special.

Ngon's charming interior

I met some old friends at Ngon for dinner and found them seated in the chic saffron yellow dining room deep in conversation with the particularly effusive waiter (more on this later) debating over the variety of local brews offered ($5-$5.50). Meanwhile, I pursued the compact wine list which is well-suited to pair with the spicy and comforting Vietnamese-fusion cuisine. I settled on a glass of Gruner Veltliner from Austria, in part because the list described it as “sustainable.” It was a spicy and lively delight, if a tad over my usual price point at $9 a glass – the by the glass offerings range from $6-$9 and include organic, sustainable and local options. Once the waiter departed my friends apologized for the lengthy beer discussion and explained that it had arisen from a request to recommend a good local draft. This exuberant serving style continued throughout the meal and – depending on your level of tolerance for eccentrically enthusiastic servers – could either be distracting or endearing. For example, a request to recommend a popular item from the menu elicited a near dissertation on popular and/or memorable selections in each menu category, with related digressions and asides. However, it can’t be said there wasn’t a commendable passion for the local and seasonal items which carried over in both the eager customer service and most importantly in the food.

Menu highlights included a delicious Singer Hole Farms Rabbit Dumpling which was served in a fried crispy shell with a sweet curry sauce and tomato basil confit ($7.50). It ended up being closer to an empanada than soft texture of a dumpling but seduced us all with a richness and a smoky + sweet balance. Moules Frites with a red wine sauce was a satisfying version of the classic with a spicy kick that moved the flavors out of Europe and made it unique ($12). The Asian Pear salad was light and refreshing with a tasty lychee vinaigrette the complimented the delicate flavors of the local greens ($6).

I selected seared scallops as an entree based on the recommendation of the aforementioned waiter. His enthusiasm at the choice – long pause, meaningful look, slow motion lean-in and near whispered “excellent choice” – nearly made me laugh out loud, but it turned out to be a well-prepared dish of superbly cooked scallops on a curried parsnip puree with delicate pea shoots and earthy mushrooms ($18). A definite winner of a dish and one that highlighted the skills of the kitchen. My friends went a more authentic route with a Shrimp Bun ($11) and a Vegetarian Pho ($8). Both turned out to be solid renditions of classics, again largely due to the local ingredients at their base. A little warning to the vegetarians: a request to make the Pho with vegetarian broth instead of the standard meat broth results in a vaguely explained extra $3. So, unless you’re fine with the up-charge, I would opt for a alternative veggie meal. Other entree options and honorable mentions were a decadent-sounding Duck Cassoulet, prepared with Wild Acres Duck and Great Northern beans ($18) and a Roasted Lamb belly with lemongrass, fried buckwheat and garden-grown carrots.

As we polished off our entrees amid a second round of drinks, we couldn’t help but feel the restaurant’s glow and charm intensify. It was one of those evenings that make a restaurant on University Avenue seem to transform into a side-street bistro in Paris. Ngon is the kind of eco-accountable diners any of us would be proud to have in our neighborhood – a tasty little place with deep commitment to the local food scene and the flavors of Vietnam. Check it out soon!

Ngon Vietnamese Bistro, 799 University Ave. West, St. Paul. 651.222.2301