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Being a picky eater and all, I’m not often tantalized by the whole of any particular restaurant’s menu, but Pop! Restaurant in downtown St. Paul has pretty much won me over. This review, however, is going to be somewhat hard for me to write at the moment, as I’m currently hungry and there is nothing in my immediate vicinity that can do for me what Pop! can.  And Pop! does it oh-so well.

A lunch date with a certain 651-based pal last week proved to be deliciously memorable. Despite the slushy road conditions, I braved the elements and made the cruise to Downtown Saint Paul with one goal in mind: To eat a pulled pork sandwich. Now, Pop!’s pulled pork sandwich is no ordinary pulled pork sandwich. It’s the BEST pulled pork sandwich in all the land, in my humble opinion. The “Asado” sandwich as it’s called, comes with a pile of thick, crispy seasoned fries and features a mound of succulent pulled pork liberally doused in a citrus barbecue sauce, then topped with a tangy pile of  pickled onions. The pillow-soft bun that “holds” the meaty feast together may as well be decoration, considering this monstrous delight is far from being pick-up-able. I opted to eat mine with a fork and knife (like a lady) and got less than half-way through it before giving up on finishing it (and yes, of course I had it boxed up…and yes, I did eat the rest of it in the car).

My companion opted for a slightly healthier, but still to-die-for meal in the Grilled Steak Salad, a meat-heavy bowl filled with freshly grilled chimichurri-marinated steak, springy mixed greens, crumbling blue cheese, avocado, and a splash of Sherry vinaigrette.  In other words, one hell of a salad. I was jealous, but I had my pulled pork, so there wasn’t really much time to dwell.

Pop! also boasts a festive and delectable selection of lunch items such as Ecuadorean Shrimp Ceviche with Cornuts, Chicken Posole Soup, Warm Beet Salad, a panko-breaded walleye sandwich, Swedish Meatballs, hearty burgers (both beef and Salmon), a plethora of pastas and much more. The dinner menu stays relatively the same with some additional entrees, starters and desserts. And true to its name, Pop! delivers a bubbly menu of fancy bevies such Stewart’s Key Lime Pie soda and some not-so-fancy, yet classic sips including Orange Crush. For the booze hounds among you, there’s also a full bar, so fear not!

As far as ambiance, the bright and airy space boasts a very retro-modern feel, with Warhol-inspired wall installations, modern table decor and settings, floor to ceiling windows and lots and lots of color. Pop! is somewhere you could take the kids (they even have a kid’s menu) but it’s got a just-upscale-enough vibe that could translate quite well into a cute date. Service is friendly and prompt and the prices won’t break the bank either. All in all, an unpretentious, happy joint that I’ll most definitely return to, time and time again…and yes, I’ll probably order the pulled pork sandwich every time.

Pop!, 6 West 6th Street, Downtown St. Paul, 651-228-1002
Mon-Thurs 11am-3:30pm & 5pm-9pm / Fri-Sat 11am-3:30pm & 5pm-10pm

I’ll be honest, I’ve never been a particularly adventurous eater. Don’t get me wrong, I love food, but many textures and flavors just rub my picky palate the wrong way. I consider myself the food writer of the regular Joe; your unpretentious captain of culinary delights that don’t involve squid ink or foie gras. I won’t quote the French and I won’t educate you on proper oyster-eating etiquette, this I promise. I will, from time to time however, wax poetic about cheese.

Saint Paul is widely known as foodie’s paradise, home to some of the most buzzed-about gourmet restaurants in the state. And while I’ll certainly delve into those kinds of places now and then (complete with tips on how to avoid eating curried goat bladder without being labeled a wuss), my main focus will be filling you in on tasty tidbits that everyone can relate to. My first post, in fact, will deal with a staple, signature favorite: Pizza.

For the first 16 or so years of my life, I’d only eat cheese pizza. I eventually branched out to pepperoni, then olives, then sausage, and at some point I even graduated to the occasional jalapeno or Hawaiian pizza. Risky, eh? Despite my particulars on the eclecticism of pizza toppings, I think one thing can be agreed: No matter what’s on it, a good pizza is a good pizza. The crust, the sauce, the cheese…any of these things can easily win or fail. In my inaugural post, I’ll detail one of my favorite Saint Paul pizza/Italian joints, Grampa Tony’s in Highland Park. Feel free to chime in on the comments section with your own personal faves. After all, the world can always use another good pizzeria recommendation, if you ask me.

I actually consider myself an expert on this joint, because back in the late nineties I waited tables there. But make no mistake, I’m unfortunately not receiving any delicious kick backs — I was a terrible waitress and I’m pretty sure they all high-fived each other when I left. Despite the constant running, bending, lifting and such that I was subjected to at that job, I didn’t lose a pound — most likely due to the fact that I always left with something that had at least a pound of cheese on it. Damn you, employee discount. At any rate, pretty much everything on the menu at this cozy nook is worth a chomp. From sandwiches to pastas to pizzas, Grampa Tony’s is a Saint Paul classic.

GT’s keeps it real with fresh, non-blended mozzarella cheese — and they most certainly don’t skimp on it. To me, cheese is key. A pizza with a chintzy application of cheese that does not hint at early heart-failure isn’t a good pizza in my book. A decent piece of ‘za ought to “spread,” which means the cheese is so abundant that is slides greasily off the edges of the crust once it’s cut. Delightful, right? Grampa Tony’s pizzas definitely achieve this. Each style of crust here is a first place winner in its own right as well. From the crisp, delicate thin crust to the perfectly chewy traditional crust, to the outrageous “Stuffed pizza” (we’ll get that later), each crust allows its toppings to take center stage while still providing a notable foundation. I went on a slight cheese tangent above, but trust me, Grampa T’s doesn’t go light on their other toppings either. For instance, a pepperoni pizza is a multi-layered endeavor stacked with more super-thin circular meat-discs than you can (almost) handle. And the spicy sausage is the cook’s own special blend of fresh, herbed meat that’s torn off in raw tufts and sent into the oven atop a signature mound of mozz.

The Stuffed Pizza is another matter entirely, and in fact, ought to come with some sort of disclaimer relating to possible “death by cheese.” Basically a pizza version of lasagna, this ridiculous Chicago-style deep dish pizza requires 45 minutes to bake and consists of layer upon layer of cheese, your choice of “toppings,” and sauce — with an additional crust layer to keep everything in check. Definitely not for the faint of heart — fork, knife and bib required.

Grampa Tony’s is not just about the pizza, however. They’ve also got a pretty solid pasta and sandwich menu. One of my ultimate favorites is the Italian Roast Beef Sandwich, which comes on a toasted hoagie bun sopped in garlic butter and mounded with savory, paper-thin slices of roast beef. The option to include an ungodly amount of mozzarella cheese is less an option and more of a requirement in my book. Served with a side of salty au jus sauce, this monster pretty much demands to be eaten with a fork and knife, unless, of course, you can unhinge your jaw.

Pasta dishes here are also nothing to scoff at. Heaping helpings of carb-fueled favorites come paired with buttery garlic bread and a side salad, and are almost always under $10. Stand outs include old-school Spaghetti with dense, spicy meatballs, liberally doused in a tangy red sauce; lasagna packed tight with flavorful meats and more mozzarella and ricotta than any human should consume in one sitting; and simple but hearty mostoccoli baked under a crusty layer of stringy cheese. Of course, for the heart-healthy wimp there are plenty of non-threatening, yet still tasty selections such as signature salads, veggie sandwiches and non-cheese-laden pasta dishes.

In regards to ambiance, Grampa Tony’s is a conversation piece in itself. The owners, longtime pop culture aficionados, have literally covered the walls of the restaurant from floor to ceiling with autographed photos of legendary celebrities, sports figures and rock icons, as well as playbills, ticket stubs and other such fascinating tidbits of Americana. The intimate dining room is one part neighborhood pizzeria and one part cute date spot. Dinnertime on the weekends is usually a loud, boisterous affair, complete with screaming children, but if you’re looking for a more chilled out dining experience with a glass of vino, I’d recommend hitting them up after 9pm on the weekends or after 8pm on any given weeknight.

For more info visit www.grampatonyspizza.com

Grampa Tony’s, 631 Snelling Avenue S., St. Paul 55116