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As of this moment, St. Paul is host to what may possibly be the best to be had in two important categories of foodstuffs:  sandwiches and the sweets.  In a recent personal taste test o the newly trendy French macaron, Sweets Bakeshop handily  took top place, with about a mile of space between them and second runner up.  (Consider that Sweets was up against some of the juggernauts of the baking world; no slouches for competition.)

Says Ly Lo, co-owner and pastry chef at Sweets:  ” A good macaron is a very delicate thing to make.  You have to know how long to fold the almond into the meringue; if you over-fold, the cookies will be wrinkly, and if you under-fold, they will look puffy.  If you bake them too long, they’ll be like a cracker, and if you bake them too little, they will fall.  After they’re baked, you have to pair them up so the two halves of the sandwich match.  We like to think our cookies are a good example of a proper macaron.”

I’ll say.  Up against their competition, Sweets had all of the textbook qualities of the delicate confection, with a crisp-chewy exterior that doesn’t shatter when you bite, vertical “feet” (the bubbles along the edge of the cookie) and a pure color (no browning).  Speaking of color, don’t over look the blue macaron– somethingof a signature item.  Because it’s blue, you might think it holds an overly sweet blueberry blast of sugar, but no– instead it’s salty caramel, an beguiling blend of sweet/salt that will leave you reaching for another.  Why the blue?  “Because we think they taste a little like the sea.”

Since life is indeed uncertain, I’d start at Sweets Bakeshop and then make my way over to The St. Paul Cheese Shop (the one and a half mile distance between them make a perfect bike ride or even a stroll for a fine spring afternoon, with any number of bars in between if you prefer a libation to make your day even finer still).

You can ask yourself all day long what makes a perfect sandwich and you’ll likely end up with fewer answers than ponderings.  At least, that’s what happened to me.  But I’ve got my finger on a couple of those meditations, and if you get your hands wrapped around a St. Paul Cheese Shop sandwich so will you.

Too often, a sandwich is premade and wrapped, left to languish in some cooler, the lettuce going transparent and flaccid, the bread becoming dodgy– I hate to even think about it.  But perhaps a worse sin even than this is the practice of filling a sandwich with dreaded under-premium ingredients.  It’s as though the builders of these sandwiches assume that since things will be obscured by two pieces of bread, you could put wax inside and no one would be the wiser.

But no, a sandwich ought to be a meal between two pieces (of  hopefully superior quality) bread, and if you stripped way the starch, you should  be able to eat that meal on it’s own accord– naked.  Which brings me to my point:  since St. Paul Cheese Shop is a cheesemonger first, and a sandwich shop second, and thus there’s not a chance in hell you’ll find something unfortunate in your ‘witch.’

There’s a list of options posted on the wall, but since they’re made to order (of course) the good people behind the counter (at least one of which is a bonafide cheesemonger, meaning he truly knows his stuff) are happy to accomodate your innermost sandwich desires.  “We’re so not dogmatic here,” I was told.  Awesome.

Options are not only any cheese you see, but also European-style charcuterie and delicatessen meats like Sopressata, Capicolla, proscuitto and like that.  The bread is just right for this sort of thing– sturdy, yet chewy enough that your jaw won’t wonder what hit it the next day.  Finally, don’t overlook the handmade spreads such as sundried tomato, and the lemon hummus– some of the best to be had anywhere around, short of homemade.  One last thing:  McClure’s Pickles.  An addition of these to any sandwich (I staunchly vote for the hot & spicy variety) is like putting Frank Sinatra on your ipod.  Things just got elevated to a new level of great.

Sweets Bakeshop

2042 Marshall Avenue

St. Paul, MN 55104

651-34-7138

St. Paul Cheese Shop

1573 Grand Avenue

St. Paul, MN 55105

651-698-3391

Tasty news on the Foodie front: Saint Paul Classic Cookie reopens this weekend, Rosedale’s Dinner and Dunk promotion kicks off, and other sweet treats just in time for Valentine’s Day.

Saint Paul Classic Cookie reopens
Saint Paulite baker Katie Novotny claims she learned her trade at the “Food Network college,” but a successful run with her own bakery for three years shows that’s nothing to scoff at. After closing her downtown shop in April of last year, the self-taught baker reopens her Saint Paul Classic Cookie shop at University and Raymond Avenues with a space that’s twice as big with ample parking. The bakery features cookies, muffins, cupcakes, cakes, brownies and bars, with scones, pies and rolls to be added in coming weeks. (2386 Territorial Rd., St. Paul. 651-646-0551.)

See’s Candies Opens in Rosedale
Just in time for Valentine’s Day, See’s Candies has opened a new location at Rosedale. The San Francisco-based company previously operated kiosks at various malls in the Twin Cities, but those were only open during the Thanksgiving and Christmas holiday season. Founded in 1921, See’s makes more than 100 varieties of candies, and is most famous for its signature Milk Chocolate Bordeaux. (Rosedale, 1595 Hwy. 36 W., St. Paul. 651-633-0373.)

Cake Eater arrives in St. Paul
One of our favorite Minneapolis bakeries, Cake Eater Bakery, is now offering its goods the St. Paul Cheese Shop. The adorable, tasty cupcakes make regular appearances at many a hip happening in the Twin Cities – and disappear quickly. (St. Paul Cheese Shop, 1573 Grand Ave., St. Paul. 651-1698-3391.)

Amore Coffee to open second location
St. Paul’s Amore Coffee is known for its tasty coffee, pastries, and cookies, and cozy indie coffeeshop ambiance. They just announced that they will be opening a second location in West St. Paul in the next couple of months. Hopefully the new Smith Avenue digs will be as homey as the current location. (917 W. Grand Ave., St. Paul. 651-222-6770.)

More St. Paul sweets:

Twin Cities chocolate shop Chocolat Celeste is perhaps best known for combining its chocolate with bacon. Even if chocolate-covered bacon isn’t your thing, you’re sure to find something here to satisfy your sweet tooth. Chocolat Celeste has won awards for its beautifully-decorated chocolates and delectable truffles. If that’s not enough, Meryl Streep and Rachael Ray are fans, as is Al Franken, for whom the “Almond Al” is named. (2506 University Ave. W., St. Paul. 651-644-3823.)

Find all kinds of sweets besides chocolate at Regina’s Fine Candies. Homemade “carmellows” are Regina’s specialty – they come wrapped in yellow wax paper, like an old fashioned candy shop would. (2073 Saint Clair Ave., St. Paul. 651-698-8603.)

Just Truffles, of course, is known for their decadent truffles. Countless flavors include everything from Kahlua to peppermint, and they’re always adding new flavors and unique combinations. (1326 Grand Ave., St. Paul. 651-690-0075.)

Golden Fig Fine Foods carries everything from the hugely popular baked goods by Salty Tart to chocolate and toffee. Unique sweets include chocolate covered Wheaties, mocha macademia chocolate bark, and Salty Tart’s take-and-bake brownies and fresh-fruit tarts. (790 Grand Ave., St. Paul, 651-602-0144.)

Cookie and gift shop Two Smart Cookies specializes in custom iced cutout cookies with home-baked flavor. The Minnesota State Fair award-winner bakers Melanie Danke and Patty Mathews also carry a small selection of gluten-free cookies. (181 Snelling Ave., St. Paul. 612-384-1069.)

For the past 25 years, Candyland has been an institution of the Twin Cities. The downtown St. Paul location is lined with old-fashioned glass case counters full of candy and chocolates, the store carries perennial favorites such as chocolate-covered potato chips, plus caramel corn, lollipops, licorice, fudge and jawbreakers. (435 Wabasha St. N., St. Paul. 651-292-1191.)

Special offer: February Dinner & Dunk Promotion at Rosedale Center
Through the month of February, if you spend $25 or more at one of Rosedale Center’s seven restaurants, you can receive two free tickets to the Minnesota Timberwolves game on Sunday, March 28. Simply bring your February food receipts from a Rosedale restaurant to Guest Services. Tickets are values at $35-50 each. (Feb. 1-28. While supplies last, one offer per person, alcohol not included.)

Salty Tart heads to St. Paul
Fans of Midtown Global Market bakery Salty Tart can now grab some of the bakery’s goods across the river at Golden Fig Fine Foods. Salty Tart is helmed by five-star pastry chef Michelle Gayer, who also does pastries for La Belle Vie and Solera. Look for their fresh-fruit tarts, take-and-bake brownies, and fabulous focaccia bread. (790 Grand Ave., St. Paul, 651-602-0144.)

Restaurant Week in Roseville
This week, the St. Paul suburb of Roseville kicks off its Restaurant Week. Visit any participating Roseville restaurant and enjoy a three-course meal for just $25 (excluding beverages, tax and gratuity). Participating restaurants include Rosedale eateries Green Mill, Flame, Granite City and Big Bowl, as well as Roseville restaurants Axel’s Charhouse, Charley’s on Centre Pointe, Chianti Grill, Good Earth, Joe Senser’s Sports Theater, Old Chicago, and TGI Friday’s. In addition to this week’s dining deals, take $5 off a general admission ticket to the Roseville Winter Jazz Blast evening concert featuring JazzMN Big Band and guest vocalist Debbie Duncan on Saturday, January 16 at 7:30 p.m. at Maranatha Hall on the Northwestern College campus. Visit www.visitroseville.com for more info.

Kathie Jenkins of the St. Paul Pioneer Press listed her Top 10 dishes in the Twin Cities, and a few of St. Paul’s finest make the list:

1. Cuban Sandwich
BLACK DOG COFFEE AND WINE BAR
Whenever I’m at Black Dog in St. Paul’s Lowertown, I check to see if the Cuban sandwich is on the specials menu. A twist on the traditional Cubano — forget the roast pork and Cuban bread — this sandwich is made with lots of lean pulled pork and served on ciabatta bread along with the usual ham, cheese, mustard and pickle. A 12-year-old neighborhood gem, Black Dog also serves a great cup of coffee and damn fine brownies. (308 E. Prince St., St. Paul; 651-228-9274; blackdogstpaul.com)
(Pioneer Press: Scott Takushi)

4. Shrimp Salad
CHEEKY MONKEY DELI
Shrimp salad is pretty much a lazy person’s meal, an easy way of ordering without having to pay any attention to the menu. So, imagine my surprise after taking a bite of the shrimp salad at Cheeky Monkey Deli. Chef/owner Matt McArthur actually put some thought into the mix — chickpeas, cucumber, crisp greens and plenty of shrimp that still have a snap when you bite into them. I was tempted to also list the amazing coconut cream pie as a best dish of 2009. If you can score a slice, go for it. (525 Selby Ave., St. Paul; 651-224-6066; cheekymonkeydeli.com)
(Pioneer Press: Richard Marshall)

5. French Fries
CHEROKEE TAVERN
KFC has its 11 secret herbs and spices. At Cherokee Tavern, it’s all about Tony’s 5-Step Fries. Hot, crisp and greaseless, with plenty of salt, parmesan and potato flavor, these are seriously great fries. Cherokee also serves ugly but delicious hand-battered onion rings. Order both along with one of the Tavern’s juicy burgers — just don’t tell your doctor or your personal trainer. (886 S. Smith Ave., West St. Paul; 651-457-2729)
(Pioneer Press: Richard Marshall)

9. Collard Greens and Corn Bread
BRASA ROTISSERIE
This Grand Avenue outpost is just as crowded as the day it opened almost a year ago, and that’s because the food is so good. It’s almost all local and organic. I love the juicy pulled pork tossed with citrus, olive oil and garlic sauce; the cornmeal-dusted crunchy tilapia; the slow-cooked braised beef; and the lacquerlike rotisserie chicken. No matter what I get, my order always includes a side of collard greens. Cooked but not mushy and studded with tender smoked turkey, they’re the best greens I’ve ever had. The flavorful and not overly sweet corn bread is another must-have. (777 Grand Ave., St. Paul; 651-224-1302; brasa.us)
(Pioneer Press: Scott Takushi)

10. Fennel Salami Sandwich
ST. PAUL CHEESE SHOP
The salami sandwich at the tiny St. Paul Cheese Shop looks fairly ordinary — until you take a bite. While not gargantuan, the handheld feast stacks up nicely with fennel-flavored Tuscan salami and cheddar on ciabatta bread slathered with sweet, creamy garlic confit. While you’re waiting for your sandwich to go, you’ll find it hard to resist the shop’s eye-popping array of cheese, olive oils, vinegars, handcrafted pastas, sea salts and chocolates. (1573 Grand Ave., St. Paul; 651-698-3391; stpaulcheeseshop.com)
(Pioneer Press: Ben Garvin)